Have you ever considered for a moment when you are shopping for a bargain how
some fashion retailers manage to offer the latest looks at low prices?
Don’t get me wrong. I
like a bargain too, and with the economic climate as they are today, I am
always on the lookout for good prices.
But I don’t want to just pay the good price, I want to feel assured that
it’s also the right price.
However last week, the Amsterdam-based charity Clean Clothes
Campaign launched a spoof campaign called “Unconscious Collapses” which got
consumers thinking.
Swedish fashion retail giant H&M recently launched a new range modelled by French singer
Vanessa Paradis (the ex-Mrs. Johnny Depp), as part of their promotion for Spring/Summer 2013.
The original H&M featured Paradis wearing H&M’s new
floral-inspired Conscious Collection - a range of sustaining fashion photographed in floral settings as shown above.
The CCC spoof however shows Paradis sitting in a leafy
garden, surrounded by garment workers, with the text 'H&M Unconscious
Collapsed, start paying a living wage.'
Click HERE to see the spoof and read about Clean
Clothes Campaign's work.
Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) criticized the working conditions in
Asian garment factories, which supply to international fashion retailers such
as H&M.
In Cambodia alone, CCC reported that more than 2900 workers
have collapsed since 2010 because they were malnourished, several hundreds of them were working at H&M suppliers.
The Cambodian garment industry is booming thanks to brands and retail chains such as H&M, Gap, Levis and Zara, but their workers' wages are low.
Thus I welcome the news that as from 1st May, the minimum wage for factory workers in Cambodia's garment
and footwear sector is set to rise to US$75 a month, from the
current $61 a month.
But it doesn't go far enough.
Apparently local unions in Cambodia who took part in the negotiations
had called for a wage hike to between US$89 and US$150 a month.
According to the Asia Floor Wage Alliance, a worker and her
family in Cambodia need a monthly living wage of US$274 to cover basic needs,
so almost four times the amount of the newly announced minimum wage. In
addition, the minimum wage looses purchasing power due to annual inflation.
Christa Luginbühl from Clean Clothes Campaign says in reference to their spoof, “H&M
claims that their clothes are made with responsibility for people and
environment, but hundreds of overworked and malnourished workers faint during
their daily work. A fashion collection cannot be “conscious“, “sustainable” or
“responsible” if a producer denies garment workers the basic human right for a
living wage.”
“It is the company`s duty to pay a fair share to the workers who make
their clothes and guarantee that they have a living wage to cover basic needs,
such as food. H&M, as an industry leader, could trigger a change in the
sector by committing to a living wage”.
The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) calls on consumers to join the petition and increase pressure on H&M and other fashion brands to pay a living wage.
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| A recent H&M campaign featuring US singer Beyonce. |
Recently in March, H&M took an important step to release its supplier list for the first time in its sustainability report. H&M said in its website that they have worked hard to build a strong, long-term relations with their suppliers, based on mutual trust and transparency and they hoped by publishing their supplier factory list, they are taking this work to the next level, and that the list represented suppliers that produce 95% of their order volume for all their brands.
CCC has commented that H&M's turnover in 2012 was almost 17 billion Euros with a profit of more than 2 billion Euros, thus H&M has the buying power to improve the working conditions and livelihood
of thousands of garment workers.
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Previously.......
Playful British eccentricity intertwining traditional techniques with modern design. This sums up the essence of ethically-inspired label - LU FLUX. The intensive labour adopted in her designs can be seen in the complex pleating, knitting and antiquated patchworking.
This month, the firstLu Flux shop is open in London - at 10 Market Street, Spitalfields - for one month only; so if you are looking for unique Christmas gifts with a personal touch, Lu is making bespoke patchwork alphabet cushions selling alongside an array of womenswear, menswear and accessories.
Her unique one-off designs are cut in modern shapes with a special romantic charm which is much sought after even in countries as far away as Japan.
Lu currently lives and works in London where she locally sources all her materials.
I first saw LU FLUX’s fashion show as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week in February 2009, and had previously covered her collection on this blog. After exhibiting under the Estethica initiative at Somerset House – the venue of London Fashion Week - for two seasons, Lu was awarded the Innovation Award in conjunction with the Ethical Fashion Forum celebrating her inventive and exciting designs in the world of sustainable fashion.
In September 2010 Lu presented her SS11 collection ‘Over the Hills and Far Away’ in London, Paris, Amsterdam and Tokyo. For her third season of exhibiting in Estethica, Lu received expert support from brand consultant Yasmin Sewell appointed to her through the British Fashion Council’s Eco Fashion Mentor Programme.
Born on the Isle of Wight, Lu studied Fashion at Edinburgh College of Art winning the Ocean Terminal Scottish Fashion Graduate Award with her final collection. Subsequently she went on to work as a design assistant to Bernhard Willhelm in his Paris studio before returning to the UK to start her own label.
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These shoes - the Osborn collection - are not yet widely distributed in Europe, but I can imagine their unique design, created from a mix of urban and folk inspirations and hand-crafted using the traditional Guatemalan shoe-making methods, will deem them quite desirable.
Free from seasonal influences, the Osborn collection of shoes are comprised of cotton, cork and leather.
Now available online at the Paris-based Centre Commercial, the shoes help aid the Osborn project set up by founders Aaron and Carla Osborn in 2007 which brings together humanitarian-based projects with fashion.
Taking inspiration from Maya patterns, the Osborn derbies are hand-made by artisans in Guatemala.
Throughout the year Osborn introduces capsule collections as a way to be free from the restrictions
of seasonal fashion.
The result is an interesting and unexpected mix of bright prints combining a folk-urban aesthetic with playful associations.
Osborn was created in 2007 by Aaron and Carla Osborn in a attempt to unite humanitarian-based projects with fashion.
Nestled in the volcanic montains outside
Guatemala city, the Osborn team, made
of former out-of-work cobblers and gifted
local artisans, hand-craft and sign each
pair of shoes.
All collections at Centre Commercial have a social or environmental dimension.
A number of different approaches are found, from local craftsmanship and social projects, to the use of ecological materials and endeavours to protect the environment.
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軟木(cork) 通常用作為瓶塞或地磚和牆磚。因為它是可持續發展的材料，它再度流行, 也適用於手袋，時裝配飾及家具。
The Pelcor range was premiered recently at the Portuguese embassy in London, the first stop for their launch. The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection features different textures and a range of colours, from a warm orange to deep berry, and a dark, winter blue, their key colours for the season, complemented by These will be natural cork shade, chocolate, charcoal and pearl. The designs are basically functionally and easy on the eye. Pelcor’s eco-friendly range of products are made with cork skin which can be sometimes combined with conventional leather, suede and textile materials.
According to Pelcor (based in São Brás de Alportel and established 9 years ago), cork is extracted from the cork oak tree that is found mainly in the Mediterranean region., endemic to southwest Europe and northwest Africa. It is a vegetable tissue comprising a cluster of cells filled with a gas mixture similar to air and coated by alternating layers of cellulose and suberin. The cork oak has a lifetime of 250 to 350 years and it’s the only tree whose bark regenerates itself after each extraction. It takes 20 to 25 years before the first cork can be extracted from a cork oak. After this extraction the tree regenerates, allowing cork to be drawn every nine years. An adult cork oak produces several hundred kilograms of cork at each harvesting and will live for many generations. This operation allows the tree to survive and prosper in a worldwide unique ecosystem in the cork oak meadow.
The studio utilises laminated cork, a material that is chosen for being both scratch resistant and insulating.
The tables are made from CNC cut Cork and Birch Plywood and are connected together using a distinct cross brace feature. The styling and shape of the legs creates a highly efficient product, whilst the selection of material offers a distinct practicality. The tables are available in either Coffee Table or Side Table versions. Coffee Table dimensions 450mm x ø775mm, and for Side Table - 450 mm x ø500mm . These will be available at deadgood Studio which is a creative studio set up by the two Directors - Dan Ziglam & Elliot Brook. "The products we create and the brand we develop must both possess a sustained conviction to qualities such as fun, excellence, precision, craftsmanship, taste and innovation and it is through the execution and articulation of these core brand values that we will reach the most discerning audiences," said Brook.
More about Clerkenwell Design Week coming soon.
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H&M, has launched its new Conscious Collection, including this lace sleeve-less top and a pencil-shaped lace skirt both in coral pink as shown below. The lace fabric is in recycled polyester that contains 70% organic cotton and 30% polyamide, seen below. Even the lining is in 100% recycled polyester.
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Design Label Samantha Holmes has emphasised the ethical and ecological roots of her product range this season with a beautiful collection of exclusive gifts and fashion accessories made with soft Baby Alpaca and Bamboo fibre. She also recently introduced Peruvian EcoWool for her current winter collection.
Samantha has combined baby alpaca yarn (70%) with bamboo fibre (30%) for the ultimate in natural silky softness, lustre and drape for items such as her cardigans, shawls and scarves. The yarn lends itself perfectly to her babywear collection where softness is so important. The bamboo also makes the yarn harder wearing, so there is less pilling or bobbling. Uniquely renewable and biodegradable, bamboo is naturally strong and flexible, making it a perfect complement to alpaca fibre. Bamboo fibre is also ideal for babies and sensitive skins as it is naturally antimicrobial and grown free of pesticides.
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Africa-inspired prints for ethical fashion
Lalesso, founded in 2005 by Olivia Kennaway and Alice Heusser who were inspired by the traditional Kenyan garment the lesso, or khanga. The designers are inspired by rich East African culture and designing exclusively summer-specific pieces. What's more Lalesso has transformed the community where its products are manufactured, implementing a fair wage policy and creating employment and harnessing the creativity and talent of Kenyan artisans. In a pioneering move, Lalesso was instrumental in setting up SOKO, a fair trade and eco clothing production workshop in Kenya.Lalesso are also winners of EFF (Ethical Fashion Forum)’s prestigious INNOVATION award, giving them the opportunity to showcase at a recent Pure womens-wear trade show in London.
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Coming off of the highly successful spring launch season, yoox.com presents the new Ethical Fashion Africa Collection by Vivienne Westwood, a collection of handbags and accessories for Autumn/Winter 2011 now available exclusively online on YOOXYGEN.
“Handmade with love” in Nairobi, the collection has been produced in collaboration with the International Trade Centre (ITC) – a joint body of the United Nations (UN) and the World Trade Organisation (WTO).
In addition, the Ethical Fashion Africa Collection includes a selection of unique styles created exclusively for yoox.com, featuring the limited-edition Clutch Bag made from recycled blue tent canvas, as well as the printed Flap iPad and laptop cases.
YOOXYGEN will celebrate the project with exclusive content such as editorial features and videos to help spread the story of the Ethical Fashion Africa Project.
Here are some pictures from the launch party in Florence.
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In a recent edition of ATA JOURNAL for Asia on Textile and Apparel, I wrote an article about organic materials growing strong for swimwear and lingerie, while diverse economic conditions are likely to have muted effects on the ethical apparel sector.
Newly developed fabrics include natural fibres and materials that enhance performance with enduring functional properties.
Read my full article about the latest eco developments in the swimwear and lingerie by clicking here.
Read my full article about the latest eco developments in the swimwear and lingerie by clicking here.
