Tuesday, 30 November 2010

Get the Alpine look!

Cardigan from New Look.
It's been snowing in much of the UK in the last few days and now the white stuff has hit London.  It would be nice to curl up by the fire in a log cabin with a mug of hot chocolate.  But if you need to get out and about in the snow,  imagine yourselves (ladies!) trekking in the mountains and braving the elements in style.  To get the Alpine look, here are a few ideas from New Look to help you get into the mood. 

From New Look current winter collection.

From New Look.

From New Look.



 Click here for some more ideas.

Thursday, 25 November 2010

Turkish Delights

Photo by Lucia Carpio
Emre Kizilgunsesler, Chairman of Aegean Clothing Exporters' Association (right)
and Yüksel Akça, Chief Commercial Counsellor of the Turkish Embassy in London
At the Turkish Fashion Break exhibition that took place in London yesterday, held at the German Gymnasium next to the St. Pancras International, I learned that Turkey is the second largest supplier of clothing products (after China) to the UK. This information was shared by Mr Emre Kizilgunesler, Chairman of the Aegean Ready-Made Clothing Exporters’ Association who was on hand to introduce 25 garment producers from the Izmir region of Turkey. He was accompanied by Mr. Yüksel Akça, Chief Commercial Counsellor from the Turkish Embassy.

It was an opportunity for fashion professionals to view examples of the exhibitors’ garment production and discuss their service capabilities. A diverse range of garments were on show, from children’s wear to men’s and ladies’ fashion, covering casual jersey clothing, denim and jeans, shirts and blouses, fashion tops and dresses, T-shirts and outerwear. 
Photo by Lucia Carpio
Penny Petropoulos shows off FameTextile's
evening dress for Jane Norman

Mr. Kizilgunesler said the advantages of sourcing from Turkey are many, including flexibility, short lead-times, as well as many years of manufacturing experience. He said the majority offer a full range of design, sampling, manufacture, quality control and finishing capabilities. All of the companies taking part are currently working in the EU and/or the UK with major fashion brands and retailers. Sun Textile for one is working with M&S, Next as well as Zara and H&M while Fame Textile (a vertical set-up which has an office in London) is supplying ladies fashion to Jane Norman, Next and Ted Baker, among others.  Demirisik Textile is a denim and chinos manufacturer which also has its own brand SARP sold in Turkey.

Photo by Lucia Carpio
Touring around the fair, Mr. Kizilgunesler stopped by the stand of Seyfeli Textile, a supplier of a wide range of organic cotton garments, with GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) certification (as shown in picture above) and discussed challenges of supplying to the UK.  Counting Howies of Timberland as one of his key customers, Mr Bilgehan Seyfeli told me he has just produced a trial order for a outdoor clothing line called Ready for Nature, for the Austrian crystal brand Swarovski.

Photo by Yucel Aka.
Lucia Carpio (left) and Nur Aka of Nurteks
Another specialty of Turkey is prints. Nurteks Textile's Yücel Aka and his wife Nur showed me a range of printed T-shirts made in viscose and elastane. While his major customers are Bader of Germany and other European countries and the US, they are not selling to the UK yet and hope the exhibition will expose their quality and designs to UK buyers.

Having worked in the garment and textile industry for many years, I understand that garment and fashion buyers don’t readily change their manufacturing sources after spending much time developing good relationships unless they have to, such as when major problems arise. I read in recent garment industry trade reports that many fashion companies and retailers in the UK have been experiencing delivery problems from their suppliers in China. Reportedly, the UK buys most of its garment products, to the tune of £2.1 billion worth in the first nine months of this year, from China.

But strong and growing demands in China’s domestic market and the neighbouring Asian countries have put a strain on its production capacity. Among its present challenges are that fewer young people are willing to work in factories there thus posing shortage of labour, especially in garment manufacturing where salary cannot compete with the better-paid technology industries.

While China may be the world’s largest garment manufacturer, more and more garment houses and retailers here are probably considering sourcing closer to home, if they haven't done so already.

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Fashion in Motion: Stéphane Rolland at the V&A

On 10 December 2010, the Victoria and Albert Museum of London will host an event (as part of its Fashion in Motion programme) to highlight the work of Parisian couturier Stéphane Rolland whose modern couture designs will be showcased  in the stunning surroundings of the V&A's Raphael Galleries.

Rolland was raised in Argentina, Paraguay and the French West Indies, and an official member of the prestitgious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris,he is now working on a ready-to-wear range to be launched in 2011.
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At the age of 20, his talent was recognised by Balenciaga, who hired him to work on the menswear collections, and promoted him to Creative Director within a year.

At 24, Stéphane Rolland left Balenciaga to design his own prêt-à-porter collection, while simultaneously worked as a costume designer – in 2006 and 2007 he was nominated for the prestigious Molière awards – and became an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival.   Later, it was in the house of Jean-Louis Scherrer that he would find his place, and at the age of 30, Stéphane Rolland was the youngest French Couturier on avenue Montaigne, in Paris.

Recently one of V&A's Fashion in Motion events took place on 12th November at the museum’s Raphael Gallery.  It hosted a day of catwalk shows showcasing the label’s latest collection for Spring / Summer 2011 from the fashion house of Kenzo which was founded by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada in the 1970s, and is renowned for its colourful hues and lively prints.  The fashion house is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year.  Its Creative Director Antonio Marras joined as womenswear designer in 2003 .  He draws upon the Japanese heritage of the label and combines it with the rich culture of his native Sardinia.

The V&A's Fashion in Motion series brings catwalk shows by leading international designers to the V&A. The shows are open to the public and free of charge. The aim is to show fashion as its meant to be seen – in movement. Previous designers featured in the series include Ozwald Boateng, Giles Deacon, Jean Paul Gaultier, Roksanda Ilincic, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Vivienne Westwood and Erdem.

Mark it on your 2011 calendar!

It's been announced.  Prince William and Catherine's wedding will take place on Friday 29th April at Westminster Abbey in London - the Royal Family's church of choice.  I'll have to clear my diary.

Kate Middleton's dress by Issa

Ladies, if you're trying to get that dress worn by Kate (Catherine) Middleton on the day the official announcement of her engagement to Prince William was made, it's by Brazilian-born designer Daniella Issa Helayel. 

Apparently, in London the dress has already sold out at department store Harvey Nichols and the designer mini chain Matches. It retails for £399.  Matches are re-ordering the dress but Tesco (the highly successful supermarket chain with its own fashion couture ranges) is going to sell a knock-off version at just £16.  

What I like about the dress is its figure-enhancing silhouette and luxurious jewel-tone, obviously to go with the saphire "Diana" ring - sophisticated and enchanting.  Wanna-be princesses, take note!

Here's one or two for dog lovers, again.

Mug modelling Dsquared2 Dog Capsule Collection exclusively for yoox.com
I know I had posted news on Dsquared² Dog 's limited collection of collars and leash only a few weeks ago, but couldn't resist posting these adoring pictures of Mug (above) and Dixy (below). 
Anyway, if you're a dog lover, go to  yoox.com to view the collection available exclusively in the new Pets boutique on the site.  The launch of the capsule collection is accompanied by a cheeky, tongue-in-cheek video (obviously it's not what it seems at first).  All proceeds from the sale of the Dsquared² Dog collection will be donated to Much Love Animal Rescue, a 100% non-profit organization dedicated to finding safe, loving homes for unwanted, neglected or abused animals.
Dixy modelling Dsquared2 Dog Capsule Collection exclusively for yoox.com

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Dior Illustrated at London's Somerset House. Go there too for Ice Skating!

Dior Illustrated: Rene Gruau and the Line of Beauty.
An exhibition called  Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty has opened at London Somerset House, up until January 9th 2011.   This is a valuable exhibition for aspiring fashion and beauty illustrators as it will showcase and celebrate the renowned work of Christian Dior's illustrator René Gruau (1909-2004), who created some of the most iconic fashion images of the 20th century.  He is famous for his bold lines and elegant style, and his legacy continues to influence a new generation of illustrators.
The exhibition presents original illustrations and sketches as well as a selection of Dior Haute Couture dresses personally chosen by John Galliano (including one by himself.)
Concurrently there is a programme of events including, interactive workshops at the Late Studios and a documentary screening; with cutting-edge fashion and design industry figures, and classes.  You can check out the details through their website.
Christian Dior has always been one of the most important and influential sources in the fashion world because he is known to have completely changed and glamourised haute couture from 1947 to 1957, contradicting the extroverted, flamboyant image the public had of fashion designers. He was a reserved man who had not even considered working in the fashion industry. What are the roots of Dior's impeccable taste? What inspired his dynamic creativity and amazing success? This insightful documentary helps to unravel the mystery of the man behind the myth. I hope the film will provide the valuable insights.

And while at the Somerset House, you may be want to do some ice-skating.  Again Somerset House has set up its annual winter wonderland - an ice rink - which will be open  all day and late into the night from 23rd November up until 23rd January 2011.  This year it is sponsored by Tiffany and there will be exclusively designed cupcakes, sweets and jewellery on sale at the Tiffany Tuck Shop.  Click here to find out more details.

Tuesday, 16 November 2010

Congratuations to Prince William and Kate Middleton!

Official picture from Clarence House.
Well if you missed the news before, you should have heard by now as it was formally announced today that Prince William - the future heir to the throne of Great Britain, and his long-time girlfriend Kate (Catherine) Middleton, are now engaged (he proposed during their Kenya holiday in October) and they are to marry in 2011 - either Spring or Summer - in London. Prince Charles the Prince of Wales (father of the groom) officially made the announcement today. Congratulations of course are in order, and no doubt this news will keep people's mind off the current economic turmoil that the nation and the world are preoccupied with.  When I was in the US last week, gossip news were already spreading that the engagement announcement was imminent.

No doubt many people (probably the whole world) will be watching what the bride-to-be will be wearing - from head to toe. I’ll keep you posted if I pick up any details.

Special occasion wear from Nigel RaymentTop-to-toe look under one roof at Nigel Rayment.


Meanwhile ladies, if you want to put together a top-to-toe look milliner Nigel Rayment and his wife Caroline, who have 50 years' experience in fashion between them, can help you out, all under one roof. They're opening a one-stop occasionwear shop at Marble Arch in Central London.  The flagship store, set in the heart of Portman Village, off Oxford Street, will stock fabulous outfits from six leading designer labels - Condici, Linea Raffaelli, John Charles, Ian Stuart, Paule Vasseur and Ann Balon - as well as Nigel's show-stopping hats and headpieces, and shoes and bags by Eleganti and Renata.
Dozens of exquisite hats in fabrics like sinamay, organza, silk and tulle will be there to try with the occasionwear and accessory brands, and can be ordered in a myriad of colours. An example is seen in the picture above.
Nigel, who has been designing hats for more than 30 years, exlained: "The idea behind our boutique is to have a wide selection of occasionwear labels, accessories and headpieces under one roof so customers don't have to trail around shops.

"We are stocking more than 500 dresses and suits from the six designer labels, along with shoes and bags, and around 1,000 of my hat and fascinator designs. We have also teamed up with a nearby shop, the long-established Alterations Boutique, to do customers' alterations. I don't know of another shop in Central London offering the brands and services we have."

The two-storey boutique has classic black and white décor designed by Caroline, and has five themed rooms - one for millinery, and shoes and bags, and three for fashions. There are spacious changing rooms on each floor and a snug where husbands, partners and friends can relax with a coffee.
The Nigel Rayment Boutique is located at 13 New Quebec Street, Marble Arch, London W1H 7RR, phone 0207 258 3331, opens on January 4th, 2011.

Monday, 15 November 2010

Scotland's Eribé Knitwear on show at Bloomingdale's in New York

Scotland is world famous for the quality and variety of Fairisle and Tweed patterns, and their rich spectrum of colours. It is also famous for its skillfull and inspirational knitting.

Eribé Knitwear, a niche UK fashion house based in the Scottish Borders, had New York in a spin for a couple of days just last week when their new collection of hand-knitted couture went on exclusive preview at the legendary Bloomingdale department store flagship on 59 street flagship store in New York City.
The special in-store event included hand-knitting demonstrations, and marked Eribé’s launch of its Autumn/Winter Collection 2010 to the US market.
Buyers of Bloomingdale were dazzled by Eribé‘s Après Ski range shown during Paris Fashion Week this year and snapped up the chance to have the collection on show for their shoppers.
Rosy Eribé, founder of Eribé Knitwear Scotland said: “We’re really excited to be getting involved in this amazing opportunity. Our team of knitters are very dedicated, and they need to be, as it can take up to four weeks to produce one garment. We really do put a lot of love into each item we produce and continue to be over-whelmed by the reaction from our international markets.”
Brooke Jaffe, the store's fashion accessories director said : "Bloomingdale's is thrilled to be hosting Rosy Eribé for a special cold weather accessories shopping event. We are excited to offer our customers the chance to shop the latest and greatest from her collection of hats, gloves, and knitwear that are sure to be the perfect holiday gift!"



The new knitwear line drew inspiration from rich Scottish textiles heritage, while remaining bang on-trend and contemporary with eye-catching colours for the Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection that focuses on coordinating ‘winter warmer’ accessories which include Nordic Fairisle ‘après ski’ garments and homespun hand-knits.
Many of Eribé’s limited edition items are made using the skills of one hundred hand knitters scattered throughout Scotland, including the picturesque Scottish Borders where Eribé is based, and the North of England. The items are lovingly produced using natural yarns and where possible, locally sourced materials. The new collection has received orders from not only Bloomingdale’s, but also key retailers such as Saks 5th Avenue, Le Bon Marché, Urban Outfitters, and over 50 top UK boutiques and stores.

I got to know more about Scottish design products when I recently covered an exhibition of Scottish designs organised by Textiles Scotland.
Cathy Black, head of textiles at Scottish Enterprise believes this is a clear demonstration of the international appeal of Scottish textiles. 
Ms. Black said: “The international markets continue to recognise Scottish textiles for the mix of heritage and craftsmanship which continues to produce high quality product. We are well known across the world for using a long established skills base to produce contemporary fashion which is revered by many. Eribé is another success story from Scotland, as they continue to fly the flag for Scottish textiles around the world.”

Sunday, 14 November 2010

Sunburst Jacket shows off Art Deco Inspiration

Jasper Garvida's Sunburst Jacket.
Still on the subject of Art Deco, this Jasper Garvida detailed creation - a 'Sunburst’ jacket in 100% cashmere - boasts on the back a patchwork of intricate  "art deco"- inspired pattern in leather.
The constructed Sunburst jacket drapes over the shoulder line whilst juxtaposing the rigid angular shape. This  is a versatile piece and is Garvida's answer to the cape silhouette that is very much on trend this season.

The ‘Sunburst’ jacket is available from stockists and online alongside many other on-trend pieces from the Autumn Winter 2010 ‘Venus’ collection priced at £1,790.00.
 
Ensemble by Jasper Garvida.
At a recent fashion show, Garvida paired the ‘Sunburst’ jacket with a ‘Malachite’ print Marina top and tailored grey trousers for a pulled-together and sophisticated day look.  The jacket can easily be worn over a knee length dress for going out in the evening.  Click here to go to the on-line shop.

Monday, 8 November 2010

Art Deco influences resurge!

Much of what we see in interior design today is a study of geometric shapes – in particular, an interesting play of relationships between round and square shapes, often in contrast while complementing each other..As seen recently at Decorex and 100% Design – two influential trade fairs held in London each year, and round chairs and circular wall decorations are often put in the same context of a theme that includes square wall picture frames and square furniture to command a new attitude in interior design. Some examples are shown below.
Chair by Guild Mark


Of course using geometric shapes is not new but today it is presenting a more compelling movement that seems to hark back to the period of cubism but with a novel twist. It is a new modernism that can be put to great effect.  Playing with geometrics is also very much an Art Deco concept as seen in the architecture of Shanghai of China as well as in Miami of the US which is considered to be an architectural style in America to depart from traditional forms. It emanated largely from the Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes, a design fair in 1925 to celebrate the reconciliation between the decorative arts and advancements in technology and industry.




Here are a few examples of Art Deco architecture captured on a recent visit to Miami Beach - to be exact South Beach - the famous Art Deco district. Building forms in the Art Deco style are a display of clean forms and geometric angular shapes, as displayed by building facades, accented with symmetrical or asymmetrical lines. There are abstract forms, modern industrial symbols and ancient cultural motifs. 

 In Ocean Beach a unique form of nautical themes along with tropical floral and fauna motifs are the norm, as well as shapes that ressemble ocean liners, and images of palm trees, and flamingos for the exteriors and interiors. The favored materials for executing the distinctive "art" decor include painted wall murals, which has become the hallmark of Miami Beach's Art Deco themes.


 The distinctive "art" decor  vocabulary include also bas-relief stucco, keystone, etched glass, a variety of metals, cast concrete, patterned terrazzo, and others.











All photos here are by Lucia Carpio.

Saturday, 6 November 2010

Bespoke tailoring suits today's man!


A few years ago while working with a cotton manufacturer, I came across Ted Baker's men's formal suits with special inside pockets for storing ipods and wedding rings (for the groom of course).  Recently I learned that bespoke tailoring company King & Allen asked its customers to come up with a new feature for a suit - and the response was phenomenal - with over 2000 people getting involved! 

Ideas ranged from the sublime to the ridiculous. Here are a few of the short-listed entries:
* A built-in fragrance in the suit (that's quite personal!)
* A pocket in the suit that could charge the batteries of phones
* An iPad pocket
* A detachable/interchangeable lining
* Internal tie hooks
* A high vis suit for cyclists
* Socks that match your lining...????
* A special headphone eyehole
* A "Bear Grylls" action man suit (don't ask!)

In the end, King and Allen announced  the winner by a country mile was probably the simplest one... an iPhone pocket!  The bespoke tailoring house likes the idea so much they are now offering a customized mobile phone pocket to all our customers free of charge - a bespoke pocket in your bespoke suit!

I was informed that one of the fantastic things about King & Allen's bespoke suits is that they are all made from scratch - so the potential is there to create all kinds of weird and wonderful features.

Last year King & Allen invented the 'Oyster Pocket', allowing UK-London train commuters to brush through the barriers without getting their wallet out...(see top picture above.)
Earlier this year they introduced the 'Instant Dandy' feature on their suits - the ability to pull out a built in piece of satin to look like a hankerchief peeking out of the chest pocket ...
I would like one that comes with a built-in knap-sack at the back of the jacket (but on the outside- so should I say, a built-on knap-sack!) for the special man in my life - he's a frequent traveller.

Friday, 5 November 2010

Bouclé - perfect for this winter!

Everyone's talking about leather and shearling for this winter.  But one of my favourite fabrics is bouclé, as I like to cozy up to all things textural to pair with tight jeans or leggings as well as fine knits of the season. From Jaeger London, you'll find bouclé panelled knit; salt and pepper tweed bouclé hacking jacket and the impeccably cut zippered bouclé jacket in deep midnight.  Its sister brand, Boutique by Jaeger, also has a glazed zip panelled bouclé jacket in winter turquoise teamed with coquettish bouclé skater skirt.

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Men's best friends win hearts! New Dog accessories launched by Yoox.com and DSQUARED²!

Photo by Lucia Carpio.
Dogs are still men (or should I say people)'s best friends.  Often spotted at major textile trade fairs and fashion product launches, dogs keep their owners, visitors and friends entertained and no doubt they do attract due attention.
Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Meanwhile, according to a recent report by Mintel, a world-leading market intelligence research firm, one of the main consumer trends for 2011 is that humans will become less-needed in the market place.  As we move into an ever more digital era, automated technology has machines replacing people – for better or worse. While cashier-less checkouts have become common place, we’re starting to see machines creep into new territories, including hospitals, libraries, pharmacies and the home. Therefore, 2011 may see certain jobs permanently displaced by technology – that includes service jobs, not just manual or factory work. But backlash and balance seeking may lead to an increased cache for hyper-personal goods and services.
While consumers are still reeling from the aftershock created by the global economic crisis, lessons have been learnt, behaviours changed and consumer adaptability has created a new way of life. With that in mind,
Mintel has predicted  "Who Needs Humans" as one of the key consumer trends for the year ahead. Alexandra Smith, Global Trends Analyst at Mintel said: “The effects of the global economic crisis have had long reaching implications and it is not just consumer behaviour in the short term which was affected. Indeed, these consumer trends for 2011 are a legacy created by economics, but now gathering their own momentum and are set to influence the global consumer mindset for a long time to come.”
Dean and Dan Caten, the twin designers and Creative Directors of the DSQUARED² brand in LA.
Talking about loving dogs, in L.A. a few days ago, the virtual boutique for fashion and design, yoox.com along with Dean and Dan Caten, the twin designers and Creative Directors behind the DSQUARED² brand (see picture above), hosted celebrities, tastemakers, editors, and their furry VIP friends at an exclusive luncheon to preview the launch of DSQUARED²’s Limited Edition Leash and Collar Set for Dogs for yoox.com, to be sold exclusively on the website this holiday season, starting from mid November.
Guests who attended the event included such well-known names as Angie Featherstone, Anjelica Huston, Danny Huston, Lyne Renee, Dita Von Teese, James Frain, Marta Cunningham, Jillian Barberie Reynolds, Joe Manganiello, Lady Victoria Hervey, Mischa Barton, Nash Edgerton, Paris Hilton (picture above), Rumer Willis, Tara Summers and Teresa Palmer.
Attendees enjoyed a vegetarian menu, sparkling cocktails, and the musical styling’s of DJ Marco Dasilva at a private home in Beverly Hills. Certified animal trainer and host of Animal Planet’s show Night, Brandon McMillan, was on hand to offer attendees training tips, and a pet-friendly photographer allowed guests the opportunity to pose with their furry friends.
The proceeds from the launch, underwritten by yoox.com, and sales of these luxe dog collars and leases will benefit MUCH LOVE ANIMAL RESCUE, a 100% non-profit organization dedicated to finding safe, loving homes for unwanted, neglected or abused animals.

Tuesday, 2 November 2010

Sheepskin slippers keeping Cheryl's feet warm

Cheryl Cole in Just Sheepskin slippers.  Photo supplied by Cherry PR.
There is no end in sight of the popularity of sheepskin.  It will be on many of our Christmas wish lists no doubt.  Last weekend, X-Factor judge cum pop-star Cheryl Cole was photgraphed relaxing between shoots in her pink dressing gown and keeping her feet warm were sheepskin slippers.  The diva was looking very comfy indeed in these cosy pair of Just Sheepskin Duchesse slippers in chocolate brown. They make the perfect winter warmer, or Christmas gift.

According to British brand Just Sheepskin, these are in 100% natural sheepskin and are stocked in many exclusive stores accross the UK, including Selfridges, Harrods, and John Lewis but are also available to
buy online (with free delivery) at Just Sheepskin